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~ A fairy-tale cottage by the Seine in Normandy

chaumierelesiris

Tag Archives: Romanesque

St-Ouen, Pont Audemer

06 Sunday May 2018

Posted by chaumierelesiris in Culture, Normandy, Things to do

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

architecture, churches, gothic, Pont-Audemer, Romanesque, Rouen

The church of St-Ouen, at the heart of our busy local market town of Pont Audemer, is currently undergoing a 2.5M EUR restoration.

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After several years under scaffolding, the difference is now visible around the front entrance and the tower.

IMG_4853Take a moment to look inside this cool, ancient edifice. The oldest, Romanesque sections around the choir were built between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries.

IMG_4862The gate and north tower were constructed starting in around 1485, and the striking gothic nave with aisles and side chapels were build between 1505 and 1515 by Rouen architect Roulland le Roux, who also worked on Rouen cathedral. The south tower was never completed due to financial difficulties.

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If You Go Up To The Woods Today

06 Friday Apr 2012

Posted by chaumierelesiris in Normandy, Things to do, Travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Aizier, Archeology, France, History, Leper Colony, Leprosy, Romanesque, Walking

Vieux-PortThis is a post about a walk in the woods to a mysterious place not far from our cottage. From the village and from nearby Azier, there are signs pointing to the Chapelle Saint-Thomas, up in the hills. Follow the signs and you will find yourself climbing this wooded road.

Chapelle Saint-Thomas isn’t listed in the guidebooks yet. It’s been around since the 1200s, and was inhabited until the eighteenth century. Over the last decade, the site has been the subject of an archeological excavation to expose the foundations and history of the Leproserie de Saint-Thomas d’Aizier.

How did medieval lepers live? In Biblical society (it’s Holy Week, I’ve been thinking about the gospels), leprosy was a symbol of sin, and lepers were stigmatised and lived on the margins of civilisation. That’s why it’s a story worth telling when Jesus engages with lepers. Who would do that? You can’t imagine that wherever the Biblical or medieval lepers ended up living was much of a place.

Seine, from Vieux-Port

But here, overlooking a curve in the Seine (which is visible through the leafless trees in winter), is the loveliest place, all silvery birches and green velvet moss. There is an excellent set of display boards marking out the various areas of the settlement – the living and working areas, the Romanesque chapel, the cemetery. Not a slum at all, it seems, but rather a working, monastic-type community and hospital.

Chapelle Saint-Thomas 

People still come to think and pray in this peaceful, verdant spot. Lovers  knot branches which grow up in these strange curved shapes as the years go on.

Knotted wood, Chapelle Saint-Thomas

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From Vieux-Port to Aizier

31 Saturday Mar 2012

Posted by chaumierelesiris in France, Normandy, Things to do, Travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Aizier, national park, Normandy, Romanesque, Seine, Travel, Walking

Walking is one of our great joys in Normandy. In London, the city buzzes around us all the time.  Cars speed up and down our street of terraced Victorian houses, while overhead planes cruise towards Heathrow from dawn into the night. We walk in the city too, but mainly to get somewhere, and in a hurry. It’s a luxury to set off on foot without any particular agenda.

A national park footpath starts just beyond the end of the garden and runs east for a few kilometers along the Seine to Aizier. It’s a great walk for the children, flat, and lined with blackberry bushes, and with neat stepping stones across a vigorous stream. The path ends at a large picnic ground, from where you can turn right into the attractive village of Aizier.

Church, Aizier, Eure, NormandyAizier, Eure, Normandy

Aizier’s Romanesque church dates from the 11th century. Even older is a mysterious stone with a large round hole in it. Discovered in the 1870s, it is thought to be 4000 years old, and marked the position of a neolithic burial ground.

Around the church there is a short historical walk with archived photographs of the village.

AizierAizier

Look at all those people – the policeman, the deliveryman, the baker, the schoolchildren – squinting smartly into the sun in front of the general store. You’d be hard pressed to round up anyone in sleepy Aizier today.

Aizier

What was once the petrol station is now smartened up and reborn as the swanky La Bonne Auberge

From here, return to Vieux-Port either back along the river or along the road. Better, extend the walk by taking the small road up the hill towards the recently excavated Chapelle Saint-Thomas.

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